Ah, lovage! If you’ve ever encountered this towering, herbaceous perennial, you know its scent is unmistakable: a potent blend of strong celery and fresh parsley, with intriguing undertones that some describe as slightly peppery or even having a hint of anise. It’s a flavor powerhouse, often overlooked in modern kitchens but holding a cherished place in traditional European cooking. For those lucky enough to have it growing in their garden or find it at a farmers’ market, lovage offers a unique way to add incredible depth and a savory, almost umami quality to a wide variety of dishes. Don’t be intimidated by its assertive aroma; used correctly, lovage can be a truly wonderful culinary companion.
Often described as having a celery-like taste, lovage (Levisticum officinale) is actually more complex. Its flavor is bolder, more aromatic, and carries a warmth that celery lacks. Think of it as celery’s more charismatic, slightly wilder cousin. This robustness is precisely why it’s such an interesting ingredient. It stands up well to cooking and can infuse liquids, fats, and other ingredients with its distinctive character. It’s a perennial plant, meaning it comes back year after year, often growing quite large, providing an abundant supply of leaves, stems, and eventually seeds throughout the growing season.
Getting to Know Your Lovage
Before you start cooking, familiarize yourself with the plant. The leaves look somewhat similar to flat-leaf parsley or celery leaves, but they are generally larger and have a glossier appearance. The stems are thick and hollow, much like celery but often greener and more fibrous, especially on older plants. Later in the season, the plant produces umbrella-like clusters of small, yellow-green flowers, which eventually turn into seeds that resemble celery or caraway seeds.
Harvesting Tips: For culinary use, the young, tender leaves offer the best flavor and texture. They are less intense than older, tougher leaves. Harvest them throughout the spring and summer by snipping them off near the base. Don’t discard the stems! They are packed with flavor too. Even the seeds can be harvested once they mature and dry on the plant.
Preparation Basics: Like any fresh herb, give lovage a good rinse under cold water and pat it dry. For the leaves, you can chop them finely or roughly, depending on the application. Since the flavor is so concentrated, you’ll typically use less lovage than you would parsley or even celery leaves. For the stems, younger ones can be chopped and used similarly to celery; older, tougher stems are excellent for flavoring stocks or can be blanched. The seeds can be used whole or ground.
Proceed with Caution: Lovage possesses an incredibly potent flavor profile. When using it for the first time, start with a very small amount, much less than you would use for celery or parsley. You can always add more, but it’s difficult to correct a dish that’s become overwhelmingly pungent with lovage. Taste as you go!
Unlocking Flavor: Cooking with Lovage Leaves
The leaves are the most commonly used part of the plant. Their bright, herbaceous, and deeply savory notes can transform simple dishes into something special.
Soups and Broths: A Classic Use
This is where lovage truly shines. Adding a few chopped lovage leaves (or even a whole sprig, removed before serving) to soups, stews, and broths imparts an incredible depth of flavor that’s hard to replicate. It adds that savory, almost meaty background note that makes broths taste richer and more complex.
- Potato Soup: A traditional pairing. Lovage cuts through the richness of potatoes beautifully. Add chopped leaves near the end of cooking.
- Vegetable Broth: Include lovage stems and leaves when simmering your vegetable scraps for a homemade broth with unparalleled flavor.
- Chicken or Beef Soup: A sprig of lovage added to the pot during simmering adds a wonderful herbaceous layer.
- Bean Soups: Lentil, white bean, or split pea soups benefit immensely from the savory notes of lovage.
Salads: Use Sparingly
Raw lovage leaves can be intense, so moderation is key. Very young, tender leaves, chopped extremely finely, can add an interesting twist to salads.
- Potato Salad: A small amount of finely minced lovage can replace some of the celery or parsley for a unique flavor.
- Grain Salads: Quinoa or farro salads with robust ingredients (like roasted vegetables or feta cheese) can handle a tiny bit of minced lovage.
- Green Salads: Use only the most tender, smallest leaves, and chop them finely. Treat it as a “finishing herb” sprinkled on top just before serving, rather than a main component.
Sauces, Pestos, and Dressings
Lovage can be incorporated into various sauces and condiments, adding its signature punch.
- Lovage Pesto: While a full lovage pesto might be too strong for some, you can substitute a portion of the basil or parsley in a traditional pesto recipe with lovage for a different profile. Balance it with nuts, cheese, and garlic.
- Cream Sauces: A small amount of chopped lovage can elevate cream sauces for pasta, chicken, or fish. Add it towards the end of the cooking process.
- Vinaigrettes: Whisk finely minced lovage into a simple lemon or white wine vinegar dressing for a savory kick.
Eggs and Lovage: A Great Match
The strong flavor of lovage pairs surprisingly well with the richness of eggs.
- Scrambled Eggs/Omelets: Add a teaspoon or two of finely chopped fresh lovage leaves to your egg mixture before cooking.
- Frittatas: Incorporate lovage along with other vegetables like potatoes, onions, or mushrooms.
Beyond the Leaves: Using Stems and Seeds
Don’t limit yourself to just the leaves! The other parts of the lovage plant offer unique culinary possibilities.
Harnessing the Flavorful Stems
Lovage stems are hollow and carry a lot of the plant’s characteristic flavor, albeit sometimes more fibrous.
- Flavoring Stocks: Add whole or roughly chopped stems to the pot when making vegetable, chicken, or beef stock. Remove before straining.
- Soups and Stews: Finely chop younger, more tender stems and add them early in the cooking process along with other aromatics like onions and carrots.
- Flavorful Straws: The hollow stems can be used as biodegradable, flavorful straws for savory drinks like tomato juice or a Bloody Mary. Just ensure they are clean!
- Candied Lovage: An old-fashioned treat involves blanching young stems and then candying them in sugar syrup, similar to angelica.
Utilizing Lovage Seeds
Once the plant flowers and sets seed, these tiny flavor bombs can be harvested and used much like celery seeds.
- Pickling: Add lovage seeds to your pickling brine for cucumbers, beets, or other vegetables.
- Breads and Crackers: Incorporate whole or slightly crushed seeds into savory bread doughs, biscuits, or crackers.
- Spice Blends: Grind the seeds and use them as part of a spice blend for seasoning meats, soups, or roasted vegetables.
- Flavoring Salts: Mix ground lovage seeds (or dried, crushed leaves) with coarse sea salt for a unique finishing salt.
Flavor Pairings and Final Thoughts
Lovage has a strong personality, but it plays well with certain flavors. It has a natural affinity for potatoes, carrots, parsnips, chicken, fish (especially richer fish like salmon or mackerel), eggs, tomatoes, and lentils. It can complement other herbs like parsley, chives, and thyme, but be mindful not to create flavor chaos – let the lovage be the star or a strong supporting actor.
Experimenting with lovage is a rewarding culinary adventure. Its ability to add such a profound savory depth is remarkable. Start small, taste often, and discover how this robust herb can bring a new dimension to your cooking. Whether you’re simmering a comforting soup, adding a twist to a potato salad, or infusing a broth, lovage offers a unique and delicious way to elevate everyday meals. It’s a testament to the incredible flavors hiding in plain sight, often right in our own backyards.
